Chargrilled Quail at The River Café

Every so often, a great deal comes along and it is up to us folks to take full advantage of it. There's one at the moment at The River Café: if you phone and say the magic words (The Times) you too may enjoy a couple of courses for £22, or three for £28, stamina pending. It is a set menu as opposed to à la carte, but there must have been close to 20 dishes to choose from. And that's excluding desserts.

It took a good 15 minutes and some wine before a decision could be made between the ravioli, mozzarella, calamari, or rabbit to start. The homemade pumpkin ravioli was a sound choice. The 'quaglia ai ferri' however won hands down for the main. Here comes the translation: chargrilled flattened quail with castelluccio lentils and salsa d'erbe. And the verdict - phenomenal.

Not sure what the neighbouring table thought when I pulled out my camera and exclaimed 'My God! I have to photograph this', but I'm glad I did. It looks glorious and tasted even more so. And I think I might know why. Olive oil. More precisely, this one:

The label tells me it is a 2010 extra virgin oil from the Selvapiana Estate in Rufina (to the north-east of Florence). Specially selected, it is thick, green and fruity and all their food is doused in the good stuff, including the salsa d'erbe which is made with Italian bread, parsley and red chilli, all finely chopped and then dressed in olive oil and fresh lemon juice.

As the flavour predominantly comes from the oil, I promptly bought a bottle for £22, conveyed it home and had two tablespoons neat, whilst considering how bread ends up in salsa. Surely it would all squidge together at the press of a blade? The blond came to the rescue. 'It must have been stale' she said, and so it must of, for how else could the bread particles have been so fine?

Don't balk at the price and never underestimate a great olive oil. It can turn an entire meal around. The castelluccio lentils you can get from here at £15 a kilo (the good news is that they require no soaking) and 4 quails can be yours for less than a tenner from Borough Market.