Hotel Viura, Bodega Remelluri & Lunch at Casa Arina, Labastida

There is a remarkable hotel in Villabuena, Rioja. It is called Viura and it looks like a succession of very attractive boxes piled high on one another. Inside it is made up of sublime textures and surfaces.

Viura must be recommended for its attention to detail. And its concierge. A Belgian called Ben. Ben was brilliant. He put us into Rm 106 (his favourite) and as it was sometime being prepared Ben invited us to take a glass of white wine on the terrace, which was highly appropriate seeing as viura is the name of a local white grape variety. The terrace was lined with handsome chunky wooden beams bleached silvery-grey by the sun. I admired them from my white moulded plastic chair.

Upstairs the corridor walls were painted black! Matt black! And doodled on in chalk! Liking black immensely, I celebrated this with another glass of wine.

Ben also recommended we have lunch at Casa Arina in Labastida, which we did after visiting Remelluri, a bodega that sits on the hillside overlooking the town.

As we were determined to take the tour and tasting of Bodega Remelluri, we fibbed. We told them that whilst we couldn't speak Spanish, we understood perfectly well. Ben helped communicate this. They believed us because we smiled and nodded at almost everything they said.

The Remelluri tour began with a video presentation. Of this we understood very little, other than the heritage of the site. On the screen flickered images of monks and then some men admiring a necropolis amidst the vines. Then came the evidence of winemaking on the Remelluri farm and monastery in the Late Middle Ages by way of accounts on age-old parchment dating from 1596 recording pitchers of wine from the estate.

At the end we were ushered into a dining room overlooking the courtyard where a bottle of 2005 Reserva was opened and large glasses poured for the 4 of us in attendance. The lady then left the bottle with us to finish at our leisure, which we did. It is this kind of generosity that often prompts one to buy some more wine before leaving, which we also did. It was very, very good.

Casa Arina do a very good chuleton de buey which we had with a ensalada normal (lechuga, tomate & cebolla). If you think a T-bone steak for 2 is a bit heavy for lunch, don't forget that lunch does not happen until after 2pm and dinner most likely to come your way at 11pm. Again, you must book for lunch (T.945 33 10 24). The restaurant was busy. Of the 6 tables, 3 were drinking Fernandez Gomez. We were drinking a Crainza from Luis Canas.

But what I really want to tell you about are the roasted almonds that the owner Valentin makes. If you are lucky, he will bring you a little plate of them after dinner. And if you are really lucky, he will give you some more when you have gobbled the first. Valentin's recipe is a family secret.

l-r: Valentin, Miren, Gaizka, Garbine

Miren & Valentin

It is a family run business boasting three generations under one roof. There was a delightful b/w photograph of Valentin and Miren from their salad days. Miren took the trouble of finding it and bringing it to our table. They were lovely hosts making Casa Arina not just worth visiting for its excellent fare, but also for the convivial atmosphere. And the roasted almonds.

The next Rioja stop is a personal favourite, Bodega Abel Mendoza Monge, which you can read about here. Otherwise, to return to the North Spain main menu, click here.